Vans is returning back to its skateboarding roots, and that comes with a major retail overhaul starting in London, one of the brand’s biggest markets.

The footwear brand’s 214 Oxford Street store, which opened in 2019, has had a major revamp — taking it from a dingy corner store to a bright, state-of-the-art space with floor-to-ceiling windows that’s fitted with a 200 square meter Roman travertine stone skate ramp.

For a brand to really stand out on one of the busiest streets in central London, new ideas are necessary.

Vans’ next door neighbors — Nike and the newly opened Ikea — have demonstrated that to lure customers in, they need more than just rows of products or mannequins – there needs to be a sense of community and a history of the brand.

Ikea is capitalizing on its blue polypropylene bags and Vans is reminding everyone that they’re one of the original brands for skateboarders.

By day, the store sells clothes and accessories, as well as skateboards with British slang printed on, meanwhile in the evenings, the space will be used for regular skate lessons, demos and events by Vans skate team and local skate schools.

“We thought it was quite provocative to bring the best of counterculture into one of the most commercial strips in the world,” said Andreas Olsson, vice president and general manager of Vans EMEA in an interview.

There’s more space than ever at the store as Vans has adopted a new design system using the walls and surrounding areas for hidden storage instead of a physical storage room. There are no cash registers as transactions can take place anywhere on the floor — just like at the Apple store.

The walls replicate the waffle pattern found on the sole of Vans shoes and the hidden storage units are made of grinded plywood – a subtle nod to the construction of skate ramps, which can be flipped for a gray canvas to replicate the interiors of an art exhibition.

“We need to raise the standard and somewhat also bring ourselves a little bit closer to the community and the culture of London,” said Olsson, adding that the brand has seen the importance to gain proximity to the culture of skateboarding, art, design and music.

Olsson, who has been back with Vans for over a year now is shaking things up. He wants to “elevate,” “reset” and “push” the brand into the future. 

He previously spent almost seven years with the brand from 2012 to 2018.

“We want to lead through skateboarding. The purpose of retail today is that it’s a mix of the commerce side of retail – which is only a piece of it, but it’s really about the whole entertainment and activation side of things,” said Olsson.

“Consumers expect to engage in retail in a much different way than they’ve done in the past. In the past it was more of a commerce driven entity, but today, anything can be accessed through a cellphone – the reason that someone comes into the store is to experience the depth of the brand and the cultures that we represent. We want to do that justice in the most credible way.”

London is the first piece in Vans’ rejigging of retail followed by refreshing its stores across Europe that will soon be rolled out to the U.S. and Asian market. The brand is also introducing a new ecommerce website.

The Oxford Street store doesn’t stop at just skateboarding. A lot of newness is being injected into the space by working with brands and talent outside of VF Corp., Vans’ parent company that also owns Dickies, The North Face and Timberland.

London-based creative Jack Charlie Mitchelln has curated a selection of books and music that customers can buy and next to that are items from Vans’ collaboration with the jeweler The Great Frog, audio brand Gomi and skateboarding brand Lovenskate.

Problems at Nike are bleeding into one of the brand’s top wholesale partners: Foot Locker.

The sneaker chain’s stock dropped on Wednesday morning after it reported a sales and earnings miss in the third quarter, in part driven by a weaker consumer and an overly promotional environment. And in a call with analysts, Foot Locker chief commercial officer Frank Bracken noted that among other challenges, the chain was “contending with some more recent softness” from Nike, its largest brand partner, which also impacted Q3 results.

To address a general decline in demand for Nike and Jordan products, the Swoosh has recently set out to reduce the presence of its popular franchises, such as the Air Force 1, Air Jordan 1 and Dunk. At the same time, Nike has utilized promotions to manage higher levels of inventory that have accumulated as a result of slower than expected retail sales. As such, partners like Foot Locker have faced competition from deeper discounts during the fall season this year compared to the prior year.

“As Nike rebalances their product mix, inventory levels in the near term across the basketball classics franchises we are seeing some short-term negative impacts on our business,” Bracken said. “We are seeing higher promotional levels in the marketplace across both DTC and competition which is having a cascading impact as we need to react and compete with those dynamics headed into the holiday season.”

For the third quarter, Foot Locker revenues were down 1.4 percent to $1.958 billion, short of the $2 billion expected by analysts surveyed by Yahoo Finance. Net loss was $33 million in the third quarter, compared with a net income of $28 million in Q3 the prior year. Non-GAAP earnings per share was 33 cents, which was short of analysts’ expectations of 40 cents. When it came to brand mix, Foot Locker’s percentage of non-Nike brand sales held steady at 40 percent, in line with the company’s goal to have more than 40 percent of its brand mix be outside Nike by 2026. In this realm, brands like Hoka, On, Adidas and New Balance were standouts this quarter.

“We have a nice mix and a broad diverse portfolio of brands,” Foot Locker chief executive officer Mary Dillon told FN in an interview. “And our customers are showing that they like having choice.”

Nike is still Foot Locker’s largest brand partner by a long shot. But despite the slowdown at the Swoosh, Foot Locker executives were confident about the future of its partnership with Nike, which is now helmed by a slew of new leaders including Elliott Hill in the CEO spot.

“We feel really great about our partnership with Nike and our key areas of strategic focus together around basketball, sneaker culture and kids,” Dillon said in a call with analysts, highlighting Foot Locker’s recent efforts to create special Nike and Jordan branded outposts inside some stores to highlight basketball‘s central roll in sneaker culture.

“While we work through some of the short-term pressure on some of the sell-throughs in some of the classics and lifestyle running, we are seeing that rightsize throughout the quarter,” Bracken said. “And as we work into 2025, we feel that there’ll be a better demand balance.”

Brand partners have a been core to Journeys since its founding. As Genesco Inc., the chain’s parent company, celebrates 100 years, FN reached out to some of Journeys’ key brand partners to hear about its enduring influence. Here’s what they had to say:

David Kahan, President of Americas, Birkenstock

“Journeys has been an outstanding partner for Birkenstock, sharing our commitment to quality, authenticity, and meaningful consumer connections. Their ability to engage with the youth market while staying true to their roots makes them an invaluable part of our growth in the Americas. We look forward to continuing this collaboration and exploring innovative ways to connect with consumers, all while celebrating the values that define both of our brands.”

Stefano Caroti, President and CEO, Deckers Brands

“Congratulations Andy Gray and Journeys’ team on this major milestone—one to be proud of! You are one of Deckers’ very best partners and we look forward to supporting you for 100 more years of success and collective impact.”

Melissa Worth, SVP Americas, New Balance

“Congratulations to the entire Genesco team for achieving this distinguished centennial milestone!  We applaud your strong dedication to knowing your consumer and giving back to your community, and greatly value our long-standing partnership.  The future is bright for Journeys & New Balance!”

Brandis Russell, VP & GM of North America, Converse

“Journeys has long been an incredible partner for Converse, helping to fuel our shared consumer’s creativity and self-expression through our product offerings across their retail spaces. We congratulate Journeys on an amazing milestone and look forward to continuing to push the boundaries of youth culture, together.”

Genelle Lauderbach, VP of wholesale, Dr. Martens Americas

“Dr. Martens would like to extend our heartfelt congratulations to the Journeys team for reaching this extraordinary milestone of 100 years in business. Our partnership has been one of inspiration and achievements that have spanned multiple years. We look forward to many more years of shared success and collaboration.”

Joe Martin, SVP of North American wholesale, Adidas

“Genesco sets the gold standard for excellence in collaboration. Their team doesn’t just build relationships with brands — they cultivate true partnerships, leveraging collective expertise to create must-have products for their retail locations. I am excited to see Genesco continue to lead the way in retail innovation and digital experiences, while staying true to their roots of community and individuality Their adaptability and unwavering dedication set them apart as a standout partner — not just for today, but for the future as well.”

Michel Bilodeau, VP General Manager, Vans Americas

“Journeys and Vans have a long rooted history celebrating and uplifting Youth thru the lens of music, skate and culture.  Looking forward to our next chapter together.”

Foot Locker Inc. on Wednesday downgraded its outlook for fiscal year 2024 after reporting Q3 sales and earnings that fell short of its expectations.

Mary Dillon, the sneaker retailer’s chief executive officer, told FN in an interview that weaker consumer demand and a highly promotional environment impacted Foot Locker’s results in the third quarter. She also noted that sales were generally slower outside of key shopping events like back-to-school and Thanksgiving weekend.

“We’re operating an environment that is temporarily impacting our business and offsetting some of the progress that we’re making,” Dillon told FN. “People are coming out to spend and then pulling back.”

Shares of Foot Locker dipped almost 10 percent by mid morning on Wednesday.

For the third quarter, Foot Locker revenues were down 1.4 percent to $1.958 billion, short of the $2 billion expected by analysts surveyed by Yahoo Finance. Net loss was $33 million in the third quarter, compared with a net income of $28 million in Q3 the prior year. Non-GAAP earnings per share was 33 cents, which was short of analysts’ expectations of 40 cents.

Comparable sales, which were up 2.4 percent in the quarter, were a bright spot for the retailer. Dillon called out this growth, along with general share gains and gross margin expansion, as a testament to the retailer’s progress within its Lace Up plan, a strategy announced in 2023 to diversify brand portfolio mix, relaunch the Foot Locker brand with new store formats focused on an off-mall presence, maximize the loyalty program and invest in technology to enhance the customer journey.

“We’re really proud of the progress that we’re making on the Lace Up plan,” Dillon said, noting that the chain achieved its highest annual conversation rate in Q3 as well.

Foot Locker also continued updating its store fleet in line with its broader retail enhancement plan. In the third quarter, Foot Locker remodeled or relocated 20 stores, refreshed 167 stores, closed 24 stores and opened 10 new stores.

Also in the third quarter, the percentage of non-Nike brand sales held steady 40 percent, in line with the company’s goal to have more than 40 percent of its brand mix be outside Nike by 2026. Dillon highlighted other standout brands like Hoka, On, Adidas and New Balance.

“We have a nice mix and a broad diverse portfolio of brands,” Dillon said. “And our customers are showing that they like having choice.”

Like other footwear executives, Dillon said Foot Locker will monitor any updates related to potential tariff changes that could possibly impact business. Ninety-nine percent of the shoes sold in the United States — including many athletic shoes — are imported from primarily China, Vietnam and Indonesia, regions that could be subject to potential tariff changes. As it relates to Foot Locker, direct exposure to China is more limited, though brand partners could see more of an impact.

“What’s in our direct view of what we buy is pretty small,” Dillon said. “And as it relates to our brand partners, it’ll be up to them how they want to pass along if those costs happen. But we were watching it closely and feel like we have a good handle on it.”

Looking ahead to the rest of the year, Foot Locker downgraded its outlook for fiscal year 2024 and now expects sales to be down between 1.5 percent and 1 percent. Comparable sales are expected to be up between 1 and 1.5 percent and Non-GAAP EPS is expected in the range of $1.20 to $1.30. Foot Locker also downgraded its outlook for gross margin, which is now expected to be between 28.7 percent and 28.8 percent, due to promotional pressure.

For the fourth quarter, Foot Locker expects sales to be down between 3.5 percent and 1.5 percent. Comparable sales are expected to be up between 1.5 percent and 3.5 percent. Non GAAP EPS is expected in the range of 70 cents to 80 cents.

On Dec. 4, JD Sports will be honored with the Retailer of the Year award at the 38th annual FN Achievement Awards. Below is an article from the magazine’s Dec. 2 print issue about the retailer’s success in North America and beyond.

North America has long been a key part of JD Sports’ global ambitions, but in 2024, it became the largest market for the U.K.-based retailer, generating 35 percent of total revenues in the first half of the year.

Perhaps the company’s most notable win in the market occurred in July, when it closed the acquisition of American retailer Hibbett and added 1,179 stores to its portfolio across the U.S. in markets outside of JD’s existing fleet.

Market watchers called it a savvy move. “They now have an off-mall strategy that they can go nationwide with, in addition to the mall strategy of JD,” said Matt Powell, an advisor at Spurwink River and senior advisor at BCE Consulting. “The two banners really complement each other.”

Aside from the Hibbett acquisition, JD opened 24 new doors across North America and converted 13 Finish Line stores to the JD banner in the first half of the year. During that period, its revenue in North America grew 14.5 percent to 1.2 billion pounds.

“Being awarded Retailer of the Year is testament to the strength of our teams and our unrivaled understanding of youth culture and how our customers want to shop and be engaged,” JD Sports chief executive officer Régis Schultz told FN in a statement. “It also reflects the strides taken in delivering our growth strategy this year. I want to thank the JD team around the world who continue to go the extra mile to deliver exceptional results for our customers.”

JD Sports first entered the U.S. market in March 2018 when it acquired the Finish Line banner for $558 million. It furthered its investment in 2020, when it purchased Shoe Palace Corp. for $325 million, and in February 2021, when it bought DTLR for $495 million. Since then, the company has continued to make inroads in the region by applying its European model to North America. That is, offering a brand-focused, immersive, head-to–toe shopping experience.

“There was a pretty significant objective to bring the JD brand to North America,” said John Hall, president and managing director of JD North America. “JD has been greatly successful in the U.K. The group had already built an incredible business model. From there, it was a matter of adapting that model for the North American marketplace.”

The retail giant has also made efforts to leverage its relationships with key brands for North America-specific benefits. In August, JD said it had extended its retail partnership with Nike to offer the Nike Connected Membership program to its U.S. customers. With this expansion, JD’s U.S. customers were given access to select Nike member-only footwear and apparel when they opt to link their JD Status and Nike Membership accounts through the retailer’s website or mobile app. As of October, there were 5.1 million active members of the JD Status loyalty program in the U.S.

“Nike is a significant part of our business and a great brand partner,” Hall said. “This was a way in which we could strengthen our partnership and increase our level of connectivity with our shared customers.”

Nike aside, JD takes pride in its broad assortment of footwear and apparel brands in its stores.

“We are truly multibrand,” Schultz said in a call with analysts in October, in which he highlighted brands like Asics, New Balance and Adidas. “Being European, we tend to have more brands. And the U.S. retailer, especially the sportswear one, has been very much focused on Nike.”

To fill its shelves across the globe, JD balances a global assortment strategy with a more tailored approach for different consumers, especially as it looks to cater to America’s various regions.

“JD has a presence across the U.S., and we know that consumer desires vary from region to region,” Hall said. “We take note of the trends and preferences in each area, catering to those differences, while also serving up some products that JD carries globally.”

Success in the U.S. has helped power growth for JD globally. In the first half of the year, JD delivered revenue of 5 billion pounds (or $6.36 billion at current exchange), a 5.2 percent increase from 4.8 billion pounds (or $6.1 billion) the prior year. Net profit before tax and adjusted items was 405.6 million pounds ($515.8 million) in the period, up 2 percent from the same time last year.

“We are delighted that customers across the world trust JD to showcase the best and most fashionable items in the world of sports fashion,” Schultz told FN in a statement.

For 38 years, the annual FN Achievement Awards — often called the “Shoe Oscars” — have celebrated the style stars, best brand stories, ardent philanthropists, emerging talents and industry veterans. The 2024 event is supported by sponsors Listrak, Marc Fisher, Nordstrom and Vibram.

Dick’s Sporting Goods said an “excellent” back-to-school season pushed the retailer to raise its 2024 outlook.

The sporting goods chain said Tuesday that Q3 revenues were $3.06 billion, up 0.5 percent from the same quarter last year and ahead of the $3.03 billion expected by analysts surveyed by Yahoo Finance. Earnings per diluted share were $2.75, up 15 percent from last year and ahead of the $2.69 analysts were looking for. Comparable store sales were up 4.2 percent.

Dick’s Sporting Goods’ president and chief executive officer Lauren Hobart said the retailer’s strong results were driven by an “excellent” back-to-school season and focus on the retailer’s strategic pillars.

“We believe our differentiated product, quality service and powerful omni-channel experience will resonate well with our athletes this holiday season,” Hobart said.

Dick’s raised its outlook for fiscal year 2024 and expects net sales in the range of $13.2 billion to $13.3 billion. Earnings per diluted share are expected to be between $13.65 and $13.95 and comparable sales are projected to grow between 3.6 percent and to 4.2 percent.

As of Nov. 2, Dick’s operated 727 locations, including 17 House of Sport stores, five of which opened in fiscal 2024.

“Our strong third quarter results demonstrate the significant momentum we have in our business,” Hobart said. “We continue to make strategic investments such as our House of Sport and Dick’s Field House concepts, where we are redefining sports retail and creating strong engagement with our athletes, brand partners and communities, that will fuel our long-term growth. Sport continues to have a strong influence on culture, and culture on sport, and our House of Sport concept is uniquely positioned to meet the needs of athletes as they look for the best of performance as well as the lifestyle of sport.”

Maguire is opening its second boutique store in New York as the Canadian direct-to-consumer shoe brand forges ahead on its U.S. expansion plans.

The new 500-square-foot boutique, designed by Perron Design, will open in the Williamsburg area of Brooklyn in December as Maguire joins other international luxury brands that are opting to grow their standing in the popular region. The new boutique will help support future efforts to expand in the U.S., Maguire said in a release.

Maguire opened its first U.S. brick-and-mortar store in 2022 in Manhattan’s Nolita neighborhood. The brand also operates stores in Montreal (which opened in 2018) and Toronto (which opened in 2020). Maguire stores are known for their “wardrobe” concept, which means each store is stocked with all sizes, styles and colors of their shoes to let consumers try on as many pairs and styles as they want.

According to a release, Maguire selected Brooklyn for its new store location because it was the region in the U.S. that was seeing the strongest demand online. In general, Maguire chooses its retail locations based off of the presence of its online sales.

Sisters Myriam and Romy Belzile-Maguire founded Maguire in Montreal in 2017 with a goal to offer quality fashion shoes to more consumers. The brand works directly with manufacturers, mainly in Europe, to create quality shoes and accessories. The brand is sold via the Maguire website and in its stores.

In the U.S., the brand is currently seeing an average growth rate of 35 percent, compared to 10 percent growth in its native Canada. The brand has sold 31,000 pairs of shoes in the last 12 months, 28 percent of which were sold in the U.S.

The retail and footwear industries are beginning to take stock of how a second Donald Trump administration could impact their businesses.

In the wake of Donald Trump’s win over Kamala Harris, trade groups and experts voiced their desire to work with the president-elect to improve the issues currently plaguing retailers and consumers, such as high costs, tariffs and restrictive trade policies.

“Inflation was clearly a motivating factor in yesterday’s election results, with many middle-class voters expressing deep concern about the impact inflation has had on family budgets,” said Brian Dodge, president of the Retail Industry Leaders Association, in a statement on Wednesday. “Policymakers should hear their concerns loud and clear as debates on taxes and tariffs take center stage. Retailers are hopeful the incoming Trump Administration and Congress take a strategic approach to international trade, with policies that shield families from higher prices on consumer goods.”

When it comes to footwear, shoe prices are expected to see an overall rise by the end of 2024 for the fourth straight year, according to the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA). Part of this price surge has come from tariffs on foreign goods (footwear imports 99 percent of its shoes from China, Vietnam and Indonesia). Looking ahead, Trump’s proposed tariff plans include a 10 to 20 percent tariff on imports from all foreign countries and an additional 60 to 100 percent tariff on imports specifically from China. In a study released this week, the National Retail Federation warned U.S. consumers could pay between $6.4 billion to $10.7 billion more for footwear a year with the suggested tariffs.

“The supporters of the president-elect are very concerned about their pocketbooks,” FDRA president and chief executive officer Matt Priest told FN. He noted that FDRA will work on educating the new administration about different options to keep the industry competitive while keeping costs lower for consumers.

“Encouraging the administration not to add taxes on goods for American people is probably a really good place to start if you want to ensure that the prices stay low,” he said.

Steve Lamar, president and chief executive officer of the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), also warned of the inflationary impact that additional tariffs could have on the footwear industry and consumers at large. In a statement, Lamar said AAFA will work with Congress on a revived trade agreement and other programs to diversify and invest in the industry and create more American jobs.

“We also look forward to initiatives to protect our shipping channels and ports, put a stop to the influx of counterfeit goods across third-party e-commerce platforms, and drive other policies that are not just well-meaning but well-crafted, implementable, practical, harmonized, and ultimately – successful,” Lamar said.

According to Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData, Trump will likely renew his 2017 tax cuts that were meant to expire at the end of 2025, which could help bolster consumer spending and in turn have a positive impact on the retail industry. Trump has also indicated a desire to cut corporation taxes to possibly 15 percent, which “would be beneficial to retail earnings and will also facilitate retail investment,” Saunders said.

And as it relates to mergers and acquisitions, Saunders said that Trump’s administration is generally more interested in corporate dealmaking than the prior administration.

“This does not necessarily mean that big deals like Kroger-Albertsons will be waved through, but it does mean others like Tapestry-Capri will receive a far warmer reception than they have under the Biden administration,” Saunders said. “However, it needs to be noted that Trump is not a free-marketeer and that some political overtones, including a slightly anti-big tech bias, may remain in regulatory politics.”

The Athlete’s Foot (TAF) is rolling out a new program to help get out the vote to its consumers.

Just 12 days ahead of the presidential election in the U.S., the Atlanta-based retailer launched “Be About That Vote,” a new campaign centered in the brand’s new corporate headquarters and flagship store location in the heart of the Atlanta‘s Midtown neighborhood. Consumers who approach the store are prompted to scan a QR code that directs them to hold up their phone against a mural highlighting the importance of voting. The screen then broadcasts an augmented reality experience that ends with a link that directs people to register to vote.

The campaign will also live on social media and include content from LSU Tigers star Flau’jae Johnson. The athlete signed a Name, Image, and Likeness (NIL) partnership with the retailer in April that involves her participation in brand initiatives, community engagements and content creation through the end of the year.

“Voting is a fundamental right and a powerful tool for change,” said Matt Lafone, president and general manager of Americas at The Athlete’s Foot, in a statement. “Through the ‘Be About That Vote’ campaign, we are dedicated to breaking down barriers to participation and empowering individuals to make their voices heard.”

TAF employees will promote the campaign across all stores with “Be About That Vote” buttons and the flagship store location will partner with voter registration organizations through the end of the election cycle. TAF last month opened the new store and HQ, which includes a community center on the main floor to host various community events.

TAF also partnered with Sneaker Ball Atlanta for an activation that featured infographics about voting as well as “Be About That Vote” buttons.

Other retailers have encouraged employees and consumers to vote as well. Patagonia, which has over 2,000 employees in the U.S., said it will close its stores, warehouse and offices on Oct. 29, 2024, on national Vote Early Day so that its associates can participate in this year’s election. According to the company, it has been asking its community to vote the planet since the 1970s, and it has given employees Election Day off in the United States since 2016.

All companies face the constant tug-of-war between vision, growth and fiscal responsibility. But sustainable footwear and accessories company Rothy’s has a unique perspective on this, as one executive oversees these seemingly opposing sides of the business.

In a Rothy’s fireside chat video for WWD x FN x SJ business hub Retail Rx, Nikara Johns, senior editor at Footwear News, sat down with Dayna Quanbeck—who has the multiple title of COO, CFO and president at the growing company. Quanbeck admitted it can be quite a juggling act, but that even while focusing on efficiency, organization and fiscal responsibility (while wearing her CFO hat), she never wants to ‘kill the dream.’

“What I love is to let my team go big, and I know that we will always come back to a discipline and rigor that is rooted in everything we do, and that’s part of having a sustainable business. But I know that if I don’t support the big ideation, we can’t get the financials either,” she said.

Initially started as a digitally native footwear brand, Rothy’s has been growing at a rapid clip, adding stores, wholesale, a shop-in-shop in London, bags, as well as men’s and kid’s product. All this works different parts of Quanbeck’s brain.

“I have an ability, like most CFOs, to look around corners and seek correlation, cause and effect, data patterns, data recognition. [But] it’s not just the numbers… sometimes it’s technical, sometimes it’s creative. That comes with the team dreaming, and then we can get to tactics, then refinement.”

To learn more about Rothy’s and watch the full fireside chat, CLICK HERE.