Despite the looming threat of new tariffs on footwear imports to the U.S., the atmosphere was upbeat among retailers and brands during footwear market week in New York City.

At FFANY, the turnout was strong, with buyers from Rack Room Shoes, Nordstrom, Target, Walmart, Kohl’s, Zappos, Von Maur and more all attending the show to meet with brands.

“Retailers were coming in from all over the country, whether it was boutique retailers, specialty retailers, department stores or big chains from different categories,” said Sandi Mines, vice president of corporate engagement at Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA) and FFANY. “It was really packed.”

Over at Footwear Show New York Expo (FSNYE) at the Park Lane New York, president Phyllis Rein was upbeat. “The show delivered 70 well-known brands and new inspiring designers, which was an increase of 20 percent this year,” she noted. “The takeaway from the show was ‘shoes aren’t just functional, they’re a powerful tool for self-expression and motivation.'”

Tariff Talk

Overall, Mines described the sentiment across the industry as “cautiously optimistic,” though many companies are mulling how potential new tariffs on foreign imports could impact the footwear industry. Ninety-nine percent of the shoes sold in the United States are imported from primarily China, Vietnam and Indonesia, regions that could be subject to potential tariff changes under President-elect Donald Trump.

The threat of new tariffs on foreign imports could have a major impact on Toms, which does 80 percent of its production in China and 20 percent in Vietnam.

“The tariff talk around China in particular and trading partners at large is top of mind,” said Jared Fix, who joined Toms as chief executive officer in July. “We have world class manufacturing partners who are committed to this brand. So if we need to have an ex-China manufacturing strategy, we can do that.”

Baby shoe brand Robeez, which returned to FFANY in June after several years, manufactures most of its shoes in China. Jennie Leone, the brand’s director of sales, said that tariff changes would likely prompt an increase in retail prices as margins become more slim.

“The buyers I’ve spoken to understand that it’s probably going to be across the board, but unfortunately, the consumer is probably going to end up paying for it at the end of the day,” Leone said about tariffs. “We’re going to do our best to keep our price points where we can. At the end of the day, if you have a good product, that’s what matters.”

Western Chief, the Washington Shoe Company owned outdoor brand, operates all of its manufacturing and production out of China, which makes it vulnerable to potential tariff restrictions in the region. According to creative director Sara Kimball, the brand is actively seeking out potential new partners in Vietnam, the Dominican Republic and Brazil.

“I think we’re really just waiting to see where the tariffs are gonna land before we commit on which country,” Kimball said.

Journee, which has recently expanded from boots and dress into some more casual styles, is also exploring back-up options with several of its factory partners. The brand mainly manufactures in China, but noted that many of its partners have sister factories in different locations.

“I always like sourcing and keeping all my eggs spread out anyway, so I feel like there’ll be some of that,” said Marisa Byrne, brand president of the KNS International-owned Journee. “And it’s a mixture of just being proactive about how we’re comping out.”

Tariffs aside, Byrne noted that Journee is seeing demand for more transitional styles that can be worn on more than one occasion. “Versatility seems to be one of the biggest comments that I’ve heard across all of accounts,” said Byrne. “Where can she get the most value, the most bang for her buck, but also have several instances that she can actually wear that item?”

For brands that manufacture in Europe, tariffs were less of a concern.

“We don’t have the issues that many other contemporary brands do — actually, the bulk of the market,” said Nancy Nicolas, head of sales for Free People Footwear. “Because we don’t produce in China. All of our production is done out of Italy, Spain, Portugal and India.”

Nicolas added that demand from buyers is definitely picking up. “I think in this moment, everybody’s feeling bullish about the future,” said Nicolas said. “I think we’re past that cycle of uncertainty with elections. That’s over and done with.”

Jared Fix has had his plate full since joining Toms as chief executive officer in July.

The shoe company, best known for its Alpargata canvas slip-on style, has recently leaned into diversifying its product lineup to focus more on sandals, espadrilles and casual sneakers. These efforts have had a positive effect on sales and brand momentum. Now, Fix is charged with taking that success to the next level.

“I was brought in to accelerate and increase the pace of change,” Fix told FN in an interview at the brand’s showroom during the Fashion Footwear Association of New York (FFANY) market week in December. Before joining Toms, Fix served as the chief transformation officer at Allbirds until November of 2023, which he said prepared him for his current role.

“I had the benefit of going through a proper transformation at Allbirds,” the executive said. “A lot of principles we applied there are equally applicable here, even if the answers are different.”

At Toms, the transformation will center on five key pillars: brand, product, channel, operating and people. To make it happen, Fix has bolstered the brand’s leadership team with top industry players. In the last six months, Toms added its former chief merchandising officer Silvia Mazzucchelli and former PepsiCo president Brad Jakeman to its board. Within the leadership team, Toms named Wolverine Worldwide veteran Camila Wolfson as its global chief merchandising officer, Puma and Victoria’s Secret veteran Amber Tarshis as chief brand and impact officer and Pelican Products former executive Brian Lo as chief transformation officer.

“Within the leadership team, really getting fantastic brand and product leadership was key,” Fix said.

From a brand and marketing perspective, Toms is leaning back into its roots of supporting important impact causes that promote children’s education and health, something Tarshis will oversee directly in her impact-focused role. At the same time, Toms is also emphasizing its position in the market as a brand for the entire family and working with influencers to connect to more consumers.

“In 2025 and beyond, you’ll see us present a more balanced, inclusive view of the brand, showcasing not just our beloved women’s styles, but our amazing offerings for men and kids,” Tarshis told FN in an email interview. “This year, we’ve seen great success working with top influencers and plan to lean into even more influencer marketing next year.”

From a product perspective, Toms will continue to emphasize product diversity outside of its core Alpargata with investments in sneakers, boots and dress casual styles. When Toms’ former CEO Magnus Wedhammar joined the brand in 2020, he helped execute a turnaround which, in part, included pivoting away from relying too much on the Alpargata. At the time, he joined the brand as it faced negative credit ratings and bankruptcy rumors.

While Alpargata sales still make up over half of the brand’s assortment and business to this day, Toms is rethinking how the icon can show up in different ways. According to Wolfson, “fresh takes” on the Alpargata, like a lace-up version launching in spring/summer 2025, “are resonating well with customers and continue to drive momentum for the Alpargata franchise.” At the same time, Toms is making sure its core design codes show up in other categories as well to make sure every product — whether boot, sneaker or slipper — is identifiably a Toms product.

Within a bolstered product assortment, Wolfson emphasized the importance of having versatile options that can live in more than one season.

“Sneakers, in particular, have been a strong addition, offering the perfect balance for days when it’s not quite warm enough for sandals, but not cold enough for boots,” she told FN.

From a channel perspective, Toms is looking to enter new doors and become overall less promotional in the marketplace.

“There’s going to be retailers you might not expect to see Toms in,” Fix said. “But if the product is in danger of being bought, we’ve got a pretty good opportunity to meet our consumers there.”

While the roadmap is in place, there are challenges that lay in wait. For example, the threat of new tariffs on foreign imports could have a major impact on Toms, which does 80 percent of its production in China and 20 percent in Vietnam. Additionally, a warmer fall in the U.S. followed by a shorter selling period between Thanksgiving and Christmas made for a challenging fall season this year for the brand.

But things already look brighter heading into fall 2025. According to Fix, buyers have been receptive to Toms’ new array of products.

“Whether it’s dress, casual, sneakers, sandals, those categories for us have a lot of momentum and a lot of season on season growth,” Fix said. “The sell-in for those categories is very straightforward, with a lot of support. And the buyers are leaning in.”

Toms chief executive officer Magnus Wedhammar has accepted a role at the helm of a new company founded by a slew of former Nike employees.

The executive, who joined the brand in 2020, announced in a Monday LinkedIn post that he has accepted a new role as CEO of Moovlab, a company that makes technology for “active seating” to improve the lives of people while they are sitting. Nike veterans Thomas Bell, Michael Collier and Natalie Candrian cofounded the company in 2022. According to a recent post from Bell on LinkedIn, Moovlab is focusing on engineering and product development in 2024 and plans to launch a friends-and-family fundraising round soon.

“Moovlab’s mission is to combat the chronic health crisis caused by the sedentary work lifestyle and static / passive seating,” Wedhammar wrote on LinkedIn. “Moovlab’s revolutionary patented “dynamic and active seating” technology allows you to move at its natural flex points while seated for a better physical and mental health. A little cryptic I know, but more information coming soon.”

According to a LinkedIn update, Allbirds former chief transformation officer Jared Fix joined as Toms’ CEO in July. FN reached out to Toms for a comment.

Wedhammar joined Toms in 2020 shortly after founder Blake Mycoskie and private equity firm Bain Capital ceded control of the brand to a group of creditors to provide debt relief to the shoe company, which had been dogged by negative credit ratings and bankruptcy rumors.

Wedhammar helped the brand execute a turnaround which, in part, included pivoting away from relying too much on the Alpargata. While the Alpargata is perhaps Toms’ most recognizable look, sales of its non Alpargata products now make up between 60 and 70 percent of the brand’s business.

Prior to his role at Toms, Wedhammar served in leadership roles at Sanuk, Sperry, Converse and Nike.

After several years of ups and downs, Toms is on the upswing.

The shoe company, best known for its canvas slip-on, or Alpargata, has made an effort in recent years to diversify its product lineup to include sandals, espadrilles and casual sneakers. According to executives, that decision is paying off.

Toms’ sales for spring 2025 were up double digits compared to the prior year, according to Jim Kennedy, Toms’ VP of sales in the Americas. And in April, the brand was up 45 percent compared to the prior year.

While the Alpargata is perhaps Toms’ most recognizable look, sales of its non Alpargata products now make up between 60 and 70 percent of the brand’s business. Compared to the prior year, Toms’ dress casual category was up over 70 percent. Specifically, sandals were up over 60 percent and fashion espadrilles were up over 120 percent.

In an interview last week during the FFANY footwear market week in New York City, Toms chief executive officer Magnus Wedhammar told FN that the brand is benefiting from a “pendulum swing” back from clunky, oversized silhouettes to more understated, dress casual looks that can be worn at work or in a more casual setting, something Toms has leaned into in recent years.

“It’s a macro trend shift from oversized [footwear],” Wedhammar said, describing the pandemic-era focus on large and clunky silhouettes. As wallets tighten, consumers are looking for versatile products that can be worn in a variety of contexts. “When the pendulum swung, it was a natural swing back to low profile silhouettes.”

“It’s not just one thing,” Kennedy told FN. “We’re hitting on a number of areas, which is exciting.”

The shift towards a more diverse assortment comes after several years of challenges for the brand, which struggled to translate its success with millennial consumers to younger generations like Gen Z. In December 2019, Toms Shoes founder Blake Mycoskie and private equity firm Bain Capital ceded control of Toms to a group of creditors to provide debt relief to the shoe company, which had been dogged by negative credit ratings and bankruptcy rumors. Wedhammar came on board shortly after and, among other action items, helped the brand pivot away from relying too much on the Alpargata.

Toms’ recent success has been buoyed by economic conditions in the U.S. Namely, inflation stricken consumers want their shoes to last for more than one occasion and are increasingly opting for pairs that blend comfort and style.

“We’re stretching things over more seasons,” said Amy Smith, Toms’ chief brand and impact officer. “She wants a high quality new product, but doesn’t always have enough to buy all the things in a regular season. Consumer behavior has really evolved a lot and I think dress casual is a piece of that.”

This shift to dress casual still works well with Toms’ Alpargata, a low profile, easy to wear slip on shoe with no-laces and an understated yet recognizable look. Depending on the colorway and style, this product can be dressed up or down. Toms has rolled out updated versions of the Alpargata, including the Alpargata Plus, which features a slightly wider last and more cushioning in the insole for a more durable version of the brand’s most recognizable product. The Alpargata Mule offers a slip-on version of the same core product.

“The consumer is looking for something that’s versatile, something she can wear on multiple occasions. She can wear it when she goes to work and then when she goes to the bar after. And she wants stylish comfort,” Smith said. “She’s not willing to give up on that either. So that’s really what we’re trying to bring here.”

Wedhammar himself admitted that competition in the dress casual space these days is tight. But he sees the strength of the Toms brand as a compelling selling point for consumers.

“We’re feeling like the consumer is really paying attention and valuing brands, because there’s a sea of these this stuff out there in the marketplace, but we’re outperforming,” he said. “I think the consumer is voting for great design but also brand. It’s the combination of the two.”

Toms has tapped British womenswear designer Christian Cowan for its latest collaboration. The collection, which debuted at Cowan’s runway show during New York Fashion Week in February of this year, features a new take on Toms’ Alpargata in striking black-and-white designs. The updated shoe silhouette retails for $120 and features handcrafted floral poney embellishments on the toes, a nod to Cowan’s flair for drama, accompanied by dynamic and thoughtful design.

Toms has tapped British womenswear designer Christian Cowan for its latest collaboration. The collection, which debuted at Cowan’s runway show during New York Fashion Week in February of this year, features a new take on Toms’ Alpargata in striking black-and-white designs.

The updated shoe silhouette retails for $120 and features handcrafted floral peony embellishments on the toes, a nod to Cowan’s flair for drama, accompanied by dynamic and thoughtful design. The blooming floral detailing offers the sleek Toms’ Alpargata silhouette an eye-catching touch, bringing the silhouette into the world of high fashion. The shoe thusly blends Cowan’s love of design with Tom’s commitment to comfort. Toms’ Alpargata shoe is a classic for the brand and comes in a variety of comfy and unique styles.

“Collaborating with Toms has been an inspiring journey. Bringing together my bold aesthetic with TOMS’ dedication to stylish comfort and philanthropy creates a unique blend,” Cowan said in regards to the collaboration. “Our collection captures the essence of runway magic while offering everyday wearability and a commitment to making a positive impact. It’s exciting to design pieces that people will love to wear daily, knowing they’re contributing to a greater good.”

“From NYFW to our SS24 Wear Good campaign, we are thrilled to continue our partnership with Christian Cowan. Working with Christian over the past several months has allowed us to get a glimpse inside his creative process and push the boundaries of individuality,” said Amy Smith, Chief Brand and Impact Officer for Toms. “This collaboration has felt incredibly natural for Toms – blending our stylish comfort with his avant-garde design and anchoring in our shared commitment for social good. We hope you can join us in celebrating this monumental partnership, where design and social impact are at the forefront.”

The Toms and Christian Cowan Alpargata collaboration is now available on toms.com and ChristianCowan.com.

Toms launched its spring 2024 campaign, titled “Wear Good.” The brand teamed up with mental health care advocates who span across industries, bringing together a wide network of voices to represent the campaign’s cause.

The campaign features Milck (artist and advocate for survivor wellness), Christian Cowan (fashion designer and mental health advocate), Jacqueline Garcia (licensed clinical social worker and mental health clinical therapist), Tay Lautner (co-host of “The Squeeze” podcast, nurse, and mental health advocate), Millana Snow (breathwork facilitator and mental health advocate) and Mandy Teefey (CEO of Wondermind and mental health advocate). The advocates represent not just the shoes fo the brand, but will act as spokespeople for the collections’ cause and affiliated charities. 

The campaign also highlights Toms’ Wear Good collection, which includes 12 new shoes in classic Toms silhouettes including their Alpargata shoe, Carolina shoe, Diana wedge sandal, Jocelyn sneaker, Laila sandal, TRVL Lite sneaker and Valencia platform shoe. 

As with all Toms products, one-third of the profits will help fund mental health resources. Toms promotes the concept of shopping with your values, and in doing so, has made activism a core component of its brand.

“Toms has always been in business to improve lives, and the impact we’re able to make is all thanks to our customers purchase,” Toms’ Chief Brand & Impact Officer, Amy Smith said about the collection in a press release, “when folks choose to wear Toms, they show they choose to Wear Good.” 

The collection is now available on toms.com. 

“High heels are out,” Christian Cowan told FN backstage before his fall/winter 2024 runway presentation at The Harmonie Club in NYC on Sunday night.

“I don’t want to be someone that always promotes the concept that ‘you have to wear high heels’ and be uncomfortable all night,” Cowan said. “I want people to be able to do somersaults in our outfits – and they do sometimes. So, yeah, I’m all about a kitten heel or a flat this season.”

Indeed, high heels were out for Cowan this season. The designer opted to show a slingback kitten heel with most of his looks in black patent or silver metallic colorways. The party-ready style complemented the collection’s theme of celebrating the five-point star in unexpected textiles.

Along with Cowan’s kitten heels at this season’s show, the designer revealed his new shoe collaboration with Toms on Sunday. The three-piece capsule collection includes updated takes on the footwear brand’s classic Alpargata slip-on shoe. Available in a black and a white colorway, Tom’s signature shoe is updated with an oversized blossoming peony flower on the toe of the slip-on and features a frayed edge that runs along the foot.

The third shoe is covered in fluffy Mongolian lamb for a lounge, slipper-like feel. While this style will not be for sale to consumers, the remaining two models will be available on Toms.com and ChristianCowan.com later this spring.

“The flamboyance of the blossoming peony juxtaposed with raw and durable fabrics is so fresh,” Cowan said. “I love how these designs merge the magic of our runways with the ease of wearable and comfortable design. These are those shoes that you get and wear every single day and forget about all your other shoes.”

Heather Altomare, vice president of product at Toms added that she is “thrilled” to partner with Cowan and bring his creativity and glamour to the brand’s Alpargata. “Cowan’s design brings a modern and fresh twist to our classic slip on, utilizing Toms’ signature canvas fabric to bring to life the intricate peony floral design,” Altomare said. The collection seamlessly blends our brand’s heritage with Cowan’s avant-garde aesthetic.

“This collaboration is a celebration of fashion, comfort, and our mutual commitment to social impact,” Altomare continued. “Through our partnership with Christian Cowan, we are proud to unite in championing these values and delivering a unique blend of style and purpose to our customers.”

Asked why he consistently teams up with brands on shoe capsule collections, Cowan added that he “loves” doing collaborations and explained what they can mean for his customer.

“Collaborations always push me into a new place that I get to learn something from and also allow our creativity from our house to reach more people who can’t necessarily get to a fancy shop and buy a $5,000 dress,” he said. “So it’s nice to be able to get more of our pieces to people. And Tom’s was so much fun because I’ve been wearing them for years. My mom’s been wearing them, my whole family have been wearing them.”

“Toms was so open to real creative collaboration,” Cowan added. “They never, at one point told me what to do or what I couldn’t do. They were really like, ‘just have fun with it.’ So, I did.”