Despite the looming threat of new tariffs on footwear imports to the U.S., the atmosphere was upbeat among retailers and brands during footwear market week in New York City.

At FFANY, the turnout was strong, with buyers from Rack Room Shoes, Nordstrom, Target, Walmart, Kohl’s, Zappos, Von Maur and more all attending the show to meet with brands.

“Retailers were coming in from all over the country, whether it was boutique retailers, specialty retailers, department stores or big chains from different categories,” said Sandi Mines, vice president of corporate engagement at Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA) and FFANY. “It was really packed.”

Over at Footwear Show New York Expo (FSNYE) at the Park Lane New York, president Phyllis Rein was upbeat. “The show delivered 70 well-known brands and new inspiring designers, which was an increase of 20 percent this year,” she noted. “The takeaway from the show was ‘shoes aren’t just functional, they’re a powerful tool for self-expression and motivation.'”

Tariff Talk

Overall, Mines described the sentiment across the industry as “cautiously optimistic,” though many companies are mulling how potential new tariffs on foreign imports could impact the footwear industry. Ninety-nine percent of the shoes sold in the United States are imported from primarily China, Vietnam and Indonesia, regions that could be subject to potential tariff changes under President-elect Donald Trump.

The threat of new tariffs on foreign imports could have a major impact on Toms, which does 80 percent of its production in China and 20 percent in Vietnam.

“The tariff talk around China in particular and trading partners at large is top of mind,” said Jared Fix, who joined Toms as chief executive officer in July. “We have world class manufacturing partners who are committed to this brand. So if we need to have an ex-China manufacturing strategy, we can do that.”

Baby shoe brand Robeez, which returned to FFANY in June after several years, manufactures most of its shoes in China. Jennie Leone, the brand’s director of sales, said that tariff changes would likely prompt an increase in retail prices as margins become more slim.

“The buyers I’ve spoken to understand that it’s probably going to be across the board, but unfortunately, the consumer is probably going to end up paying for it at the end of the day,” Leone said about tariffs. “We’re going to do our best to keep our price points where we can. At the end of the day, if you have a good product, that’s what matters.”

Western Chief, the Washington Shoe Company owned outdoor brand, operates all of its manufacturing and production out of China, which makes it vulnerable to potential tariff restrictions in the region. According to creative director Sara Kimball, the brand is actively seeking out potential new partners in Vietnam, the Dominican Republic and Brazil.

“I think we’re really just waiting to see where the tariffs are gonna land before we commit on which country,” Kimball said.

Journee, which has recently expanded from boots and dress into some more casual styles, is also exploring back-up options with several of its factory partners. The brand mainly manufactures in China, but noted that many of its partners have sister factories in different locations.

“I always like sourcing and keeping all my eggs spread out anyway, so I feel like there’ll be some of that,” said Marisa Byrne, brand president of the KNS International-owned Journee. “And it’s a mixture of just being proactive about how we’re comping out.”

Tariffs aside, Byrne noted that Journee is seeing demand for more transitional styles that can be worn on more than one occasion. “Versatility seems to be one of the biggest comments that I’ve heard across all of accounts,” said Byrne. “Where can she get the most value, the most bang for her buck, but also have several instances that she can actually wear that item?”

For brands that manufacture in Europe, tariffs were less of a concern.

“We don’t have the issues that many other contemporary brands do — actually, the bulk of the market,” said Nancy Nicolas, head of sales for Free People Footwear. “Because we don’t produce in China. All of our production is done out of Italy, Spain, Portugal and India.”

Nicolas added that demand from buyers is definitely picking up. “I think in this moment, everybody’s feeling bullish about the future,” said Nicolas said. “I think we’re past that cycle of uncertainty with elections. That’s over and done with.”

Dolce Vita is expanding its retail footprint once again with the opening of its first-ever mall store in the U.S.

Located inside the Aventura Mall in Miami, Fla., the 802-sq.-ft. store officially opened its doors in November and marks the footwear brand’s debut in Florida. The new shop offers Dolce Vita’s full range of footwear and accessories.

Designed by Aine Naughton, the company noted that the new Aventura store reflects Dolce Vita’s “less is more” approach, with architecture that features organic curves, neutral tones, and layered textures.

“We’re excited to introduce our brand to a vibrant new community in one of the region’s most iconic destinations,” Kerry Norlin, president of Dolce Vita, told FN. “The Aventura store is a natural extension of our retail identity, creating a luxe, curated experience tailored to South Florida’s energy and lifestyle.”

The Steve Madden-owned label added that this opening is a key milestone in Dolce Vita’s national expansion. Last year, the brand unveiled its first flagship store in New York City. Set on the corner of Broadway and Broome St. in NYC’s SoHo neighborhood, the flagship featured an open, single-level space in hues of brown and cream –  similar to the new Aventura location. The moment marked its second retail location in the U.S. at the time, following Dolce Vita’s first store that opened in Los Angeles’ Melrose Place in 2006.

Other openings have since taken place in Austin, Texas and Washington, D.C., as well as in Quebec, Canada.

This new store comes as parent company Steve Madden raised its full-year outlook last month after reporting sales and earnings for the third quarter of 2024. Revenues in the period were $624.7 million, up 13 percent compared to the same quarter in 2023.

Chairman and chief executive officer Edward Rosenfeld said in a statement in November that accessories and apparel sales, including strong performance in Steve Madden handbags, helped drive the solid results in the quarter. Contributions from the newly acquired Almost Famous brand, which Steve Madden snapped up in October for $52 million, continued to bolster the apparel business.

Rosenfeld also cited “robust top line gains in international markets and direct-to-consumer channels.”

Jimmy Choo is finally returning to Madison Avenue with a new flagship that is just a few blocks down from its former location.

The brand’s new spot on 667 Madison Avenue introduces a renewed retail aesthetic, where each Jimmy Choo boutique offers a one-of-a-kind environment and experience. See all the photos from the store below.

Shares for Genesco jumped nearly 8 percent in pre-market trading on Friday as the company reported positive results driven by continued growth at Journeys in the third quarter.

According to the Nashville-based footwear company, total net sales in the third quarter of fiscal 2025 increased 3 percent to $596 million, up from $579 million the year prior. Loss from continuing operations was $18.8 million in the third quarter compared to earnings from continuing operations of $6.6 million in the prior year.

Genesco noted in its earnings release that this sales increase reflects a 6 percent bump in comparable sales, including a 15 percent rise in e-commerce comparable sales and a 4 percent increase in same store sales.

The company further noted that overall sales increase for the third quarter was driven by an increase of 4 percent at Journeys, an increase of 3 percent at Schuh and a 10 percent increase at Genesco Brands, partially offset by a decrease of 4 percent at Johnston & Murphy.

Genesco president, chief executive officer and board chair Mimi Vaughn said in a statement that the company’s quarterly performance once again exceeded expectations and marked a return to positive overall comparable sales. 

“Following a strong start to the third quarter including the heart of back-to-school, sales trends at Journeys remained robust in September and October, fueling a double-digit comp gain for the business,” Vaughn said. “This result was driven by the initial phase of Journeys’ strategic growth plan which has focused on elevating the consumer experience including improving the product assortment and visually resetting our stores. Earnings per share would have been stronger without the shift of an important back-to-school week into the second quarter this year.”

The CEO added that the company is satisfied with Journeys’ start to the fourth quarter including the important Black Friday and Cyber Monday period, especially as demand for several discretionary categories including footwear continues to be very selective and event driven.

And based on the current variability of consumer demand and shopping trends, Vaughn noted that Genesco has adopted a more cautious view for Schuh and Johnston & Murphy over the remainder of this year.

“We are in the very early innings of returning Journeys and the overall company to historical rates of sales and profitability,” the CEO continued. “With the progress we’ve recently made, and our track record of successfully evolving our businesses in response to changing consumer preferences and purchasing behavior, I feel confident we have the experience and strategies to drive profitable growth across the company and create greater value for our shareholders over the near- and long-term.”

Following its third quarter performance, Genesco said it is raising its yearly guidance. The shoe company now expects total sales to be down 1 percent to flat compared to fiscal 2024, or flat to up 1 percent excluding the 53rd week in fiscal 2024 versus prior expectations for a total sales decrease of 1 percent to 2 percent, or flat to down 1 percent excluding the 53rd week in fiscal 2024.

Genesco also revised its adjusted diluted earnings per share for the year, and now expects EPS from continuing operations in the range of 80 cents to $1.00 versus prior guidance of 60 cents to $1.00.

Todd Snyder and New Balance continue their long-standing collaboration with the introduction of the 574 Legacy “Parchment & Pine” pack.

According to the menswear designer, the new styles are a “rugged luxe reimagining of one of New Balance’s most iconic silhouettes.”

Designed by Snyder with hues inspired by the holiday season, this new sneaker capsule is crafted with premium materials, and features a mix of clean leather and hairy suede uppers, complemented by a hairy suede “N” logo on the lateral sides. Other details include a lightweight EVA foam cushioning in the midsole and heel, as well as ENCAP midsole cushioning supported by a durable polyurethane rim.

When creating this pack, Snyder noted he was inspired by New York City’s Flower District during the holiday season. The “Pine” colorway is a deep evergreen, reminiscent of lush holiday foliage and freshly trimmed branches. While the “Parchment” colorway is a soft brown tone with a matte finish, evoking the parchment paper used to wrap trimmings.

Originally introduced in 1988, the 574 Legacy aims to preserve the timeless appeal of the iconic 574 sneaker model.

This latest collaboration comes as Snyder continues to release must-have shoe tie-ups. In June, Snyder teamed with gardening experts Gardenheir on a 12-piece capsule collection that ranges from clogs to smocks. The capsule features two made-in-Italy shoe styles – the aforementioned gardening clog and a leather fisherman sandal.

In May, Snyder joined forces with Sperry to update the footwear brand’s signature Authentic Original boat shoe. Dubbed the “Sperry x Todd Snyder Authentic Original,” the collaborative style boasts a luxe suede upper sourced from Charles F. Stead & Co. in Leeds, UK. 

These collabs also come as Snyder launched his first-ever mainline shoe style – the Tuscan Court sneaker – in August 2023.

As for New Balance, the brand just took home the Company of the Year award at the 2024 FNAAs on Wednesday night. Presented by Olympian Gabby Thomas and accepted by New Balance chief executive officer Joe Preston, the company couldn’t miss in 2024.

“The teamwork that is exhibited across our company is the key reason why we are here tonight,” Preston said at Wednesday’s event in NYC. “It’s a fearlessly independent mindset that we operate from being privately held that we think allows us that opportunity.”

The Todd Snyder and New Balance’s 574 Legacy “Parchment & Pine” pack retails for $120 and is now available for purchase exclusively at Todd Snyder shops and on Toddsnyder.com.

Autry took a trip to Miami this week to showcase its new sneaker collaboration with American artist Rob Pruitt.

Coinciding with Art Basel Miami, the footwear brand transformed a gas station, customizing it for the occasion into the “Autry Art Station.” The company said in a release that the conceptual space was inspired by Pruitt’s acclaimed chrome artworks including tire sculptures.

The collaborative Rob Pruitt x Autry sneakers update the footwear brand’s Medalist Low shoe model in a mirror-effect chrome leather and feature puffy silver laces, echoing the artist’s “chromed project” series of works. Pruitt’s signature is also prominently displayed on the shoe side and outsole.

Pruitt said in a statement that he is drawn to outsider materials like tape, sprayed paint, glitter, and found objects.

“My language is direct, simple, minimal, and universal while tackling topics ranging from the light-hearted to the controversial,” the artist said. “There is nothing more beautiful and excellent than the classic Autry sneaker, which floods me with the impulse to chrome it, to put it on a pedestal, to celebrate its nostalgia and envision it moving into the future. The ephemeral reflective effect of the mirror finished leather turns every expectation around.”

Only 2,500 pairs will be made available for the release and come in transparent dust bags and a plexiglass box decorated with the artist’s signature smiley, Autry added.

Autry is no stranger to big events like this new project in Miami. In September, the footwear company staged a 1960s inspired drive-in experience in the Marais district of Paris where attendees enjoyed an open-air cinema, vintage cars, and classic American fare like burgers and milkshakes.

The event marked the global debut of the Autry Windspin sneakers, a flat style crafted from soft and destressed suede. Its tapered silhouette is a nod to the trainers that were popular in 1960s and will be available in 30 variations.

The new Autry Art Station and exclusive sneaker collaboration debuts tonight during Art Basel at an event located at 331 23rd St. in Miami Beach from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.

The Rob Pruitt x Autry sneakers, which retail for $380, are now available exclusively online at autry-usa.com.

Susan Itzkowitz, Dave Powers and Tacey Powers were inducted into the FN Hall of Fame at the 2024 FNAAs on Wednesday night.

The three exceptional leaders took the stage to reflect on their storied careers and thank those who helped them on their path to hall of fame status in the footwear industry.

In 2004, Susan Itzkowitz partnered with Marc Fisher to launch a new shoe venture, which has grown into a powerful player in the fashion footwear business, encompassing 14 brands, including licensed collections for Calvin Klein, Guess, Tommy Hilfiger, Hunter and others. And as a longtime board member for Two Ten Footwear Foundation, she has spearheaded efforts to increase representation and opportunities for women in the industry.  

“I overcame barriers I hadn’t even known existed, such as becoming one of the first women to hold senior roles in several male dominated companies,” Itzkowitz said. “It wasn’t always easy, and honestly, some of the toughest challenges came from other women. But their ruthless approach to leadership taught me a powerful lesson: women in business wield extraordinary strength when they lead with a balance of power and kindness, and embrace collaboration.”

Dave Powers made news this year as he announced he’d step down as chief executive officer of Deckers Brands in August, capping off an incredible 12-year run with the company. He joined Deckers as president of direct-to-consumer in August 2012, rising through the ranks to become CEO in 2016. Under his tenure, Deckers experienced explosive growth, led by its Ugg and Hoka businesses. For its last fiscal year, the company scored $4.3 billion in sales.

“It’s a tough world these days, and we’re grateful to have this opportunity to be with you all tonight and celebrate all of you,” Dave Powers noted. “I also want you to know it’s not lost on me how surreal this is for me. I mean, I grew up in a small, blue-collar town in New Hampshire, which actually at one point, was known for its shoe industry… But, I will leave you with a few words that is a motto that we use a lot at Deckers which is, ‘Stay hungry, stay humble and be kind.’ And that formula works every day.”

And for Tacey Powers, she joined Nordstrom in 1981, starting on the sales floor and working her way up to the executive level, where she now serves as executive vice president and general merchandise manager for shoes. In addition to overseeing the retailer’s stores in the U.S., she also has been committed to mentorship and giving back to the industry as a board member for Two Ten Footwear Foundation and Footwear Retailers and Distributors of America.

“To the Nordstrom family: I am grateful to have been part of your organization for over 40 years,” Tacey Powers said. And to my Nordstrom team: I work with a group of amazing people who bring joy and their special talent to work every day. I believe we have some of the best merchants in the business… I feel truly best blessed to sit in one of the greatest seats in the industry, and I will never take that for granted.”

For 38 years, the annual FN Achievement Awards — often called the “Shoe Oscars” — have celebrated the style stars, best brand stories, ardent philanthropists, emerging talents and industry veterans. The 2024 event is supported by sponsors Listrak, Marc Fisher, Nordstrom and Vibram.

“Hi, Rihanna,” Tepper Itzler said as she accepted the Launch of the Year award on behalf of her mother Sneex founder Sara Blakely at the 2024 FNAAs on Wednesday night.

Indeed, the 8-year-old daughter of Blakely, who was joined on stage by Amy Griffin, stole the show at Cipriani South Street as the crowd of nearly 400 guests cheered her on during the speech.

“I’m accepting this award on behalf of my mom,” Itzler said. “She is in Dubai. I’m a little nervous because I have never given an acceptance speech before, but my mom always says, ‘With hard work, anything is possible.’ I think Sneex is amazing. As you can see, I’m wearing my mom’s Sneex from her closet right now.”

The adorable moment continued with some fun facts about Blakely. “Some things you all don’t know about my mom are, number one, that she’s a great back scratcher, number two, she makes amazing pancakes on Sunday, and number three, she makes great Sneex,” Itzler said.

This isn’t Blakely’s first time in the rodeo. The entrepreneur is most well known as the founder of the Spanx intimates’ brand, which launched in 2000 and was built it into a market leader valued at $1.2 billion as of 2021, when Blackstone acquired a majority stake.

Now, the entrepreneur is leveraging the power of online platforms to bolster her new Sneex luxury shoe brand, which began selling direct to consumer in August. And it’s certainly gained attention, landing on Oprah’s Favorite Things list for the holidays and garnering celebrity fans that include Gayle King, Jane Fonda, Reese Witherspoon and Hoda Kotb.

With Sneex, Blakely has introduced a new footwear silhouette she’s dubbed a “hy-heel” that merges an athletic sneaker with a stiletto. The collection — which is made in Spain with luxurious nappa leather and Italian mesh — so far consists of three styles retailing for $395 to $595.

For 38 years, the annual FN Achievement Awards — often called the “Shoe Oscars” — have celebrated the style stars, best brand stories, ardent philanthropists, emerging talents and industry veterans. The 2024 event is supported by sponsors Listrak, Marc Fisher, Nordstrom and Vibram.

Best Shoe Moments at the FNAA 2024

View Gallery 14 Images

Merrell has tapped Noreen Naroo-Pucci as its new chief product officer.

According to the Wolverine Worldwide-owned brand, Naroo-Pucci will be tasked with expanding Merrell as a lifestyle brand. The company said in a statement that Merrell’s strategic move into the lifestyle segment “caters to the growing demand for versatile footwear that seamlessly transitions from outdoor adventures to everyday urban life.”

Expect to see the brand tap into a trend where consumers seek products that support an active, outdoor-inspired lifestyle, even in their daily routines, the company added.

“We’re excited to have Noreen join us,” Janice Tennant, global brand president of Merrell, said in a statement. “From her depth of experience working globally across great brands, her passion for innovation and elevating design and a commitment to building high performing teams, she is going to help us continue to modernize the brand in order to attract the next generation of outdoor consumers.”

Naroo-Pucci was most recently the chief product officer at Mizzen+Main, a young menswear brand. Her career also includes serving as the senior vice president of menswear design in North America for Calvin Klein and eleven years at Under Armour as senior creative director and vice president of global design engine.

“Merrell is a brand that understands the evolving outdoor space and is dedicated to building strong, purposeful footwear, and I am thrilled to work with the talented team to create innovative products to empower our consumers,” Naroo-Pucci, said. “I’m eager to bring my passion for product to Merrell as I lead with vision and integrity as we bring style and functionality in everyday urban settings.”

Naroo-Pucci is the latest new hire at Wolverine Worldwide in recent months. In November, the company named industry veteran Mike Maloney as the new chief product officer of its Work Group. Maloney, who joined from DSW parent company Designer Brands, will spearhead product development, merchandise strategy and market expansion initiatives for all brands within the Work Group, including Wolverine, Cat Footwear, Bates, Harley-Davidson Footwear, Merrell Work and Hytest. 

In October, Wolverine Worldwide named Susie Kuhn as president of the company’s Active Group. In her role, Kuhn is now responsible for leading Merrell, Saucony and Chaco, as well as the company’s Collective initiative.

Wolverine Worldwide ended Q3 last month with revenue of $440.2 million, down 16.6 percent from $527.7 million the same time last year. Ongoing total revenue in Q3 – which excludes the impact of sold assets – was $440.1 million, a decrease of 7.0 percent from $473.3 million the prior year period.

Looking ahead, the company raised its guidance slightly and now expects total revenue from its ongoing business to be approximately $1.730 billion to $1.745 billion for the full fiscal year 2024.

Caleres is lowering its yearly guidance after reporting performance below its expectations in the third quarter of 2024.

According to the St. Louis-based footwear company, net sales in Q3 were $740.9 million, down 2.8 percent from $761.9 million in the third quarter of 2023. Net earnings in the third quarter $41.4 million, or earnings per diluted share of $1.19, compared to net earnings of $46.9 million, or earnings per diluted share of $1.32, in the same period last year.

By business segment, Caleres reported that net sales at Famous Footwear decreased 4.8 percent, with comparable store sales up 2.5 percent. The company’s brand portfolio segment saw net sales increase 0.7 percent.

These results missed the company’s Q3 guidance, which were expected to see net sales between flat for the period to down 2 percent. Earnings per diluted share in Q3 were expected to be between $1.24 and $1.34.

The miss led to the company’s stock dipping nearly 19 percent in pre-market trading on Thursday.

Jay Schmidt, president and chief executive officer of Caleres, said in a statement on Thursday that performance in the quarter was due to “softer seasonal demand in the boot category, late receipts of key athletic product at Famous Footwear, and a discrete customer credit issue that impacted shipments.” The company’s business in China was also weaker than planned in Q3, the CEO noted.

Despite the lower sales, Schmidt remains confident in the business. “The third quarter saw progress toward our strategy highlighted by the Brand Portfolio delivering growth, Famous Footwear delivering positive comparable store sales, and both segments increasing market share,” he said.

“As we begin the fourth quarter, our strategies are working to drive market share and we are aligning our expenses with expected sales, while appropriately investing behind areas of the business that are expected to deliver a strong ROI,” Schmidt continued.

Looking ahead, the company is lowering its full-year outlook as it expects its season-to-date sales trend to continue in the final quarter of the year and anticipates pressure on its gross margin as it takes action to move through excess inventory in order to position itself well for 2025.

Caleres now expects net sales for the full fiscal year 2024 to be down between 2.5 percent and 3 percent versus previous guidance of sales down in the low single digits. Caleres is also lowering its fiscal 2024 outlook for earnings per diluted share to the range of $3.35 to $3.45 versus prior guidance of $3.94 to $4.09.

“Longer term, we believe we are well-positioned to execute our strategic plan, invest to fuel our ambition, and drive sustained value for our shareholders,” Schmidt added.